Quinta de Foz de Arouce, Vinhas Velhas de Santa Maria Beiras 2007
紅酒, 葡萄酒, 酒
The 2007 TINTO “VINHAS VELHAS DE SANTA MARIA” (QUINTA DE FOZ DE AROUCE) is Baga from 70 year old vines, with 15% Touriga Nacional added in. When I first saw this in the USA, I thought it was potentially brilliant, but it was admittedly disjointed. If it reeked of potential, there were still some things it had to prove. I was happy to have had the chance to see it again at the winery this summer, and it is pulling itself together brilliantly. Rich and deep for its type, making the rather nice regular Tinto seem quite wimpy by comparison, this has fine concentration, silky texture and superb structure. It always showed that, of course. What it adds now is more expressive fruit, plus it provides increasing proof that it will come into perfect balance. The acidity cuts through the mid-palate, making this seem vibrant as well as concentrated. I loved this when I first saw it. It looks like a superstar now. It is still developing, although it is far more approachable than when I first saw it. Structure, fruit, concentration, vibrancy, ageworthiness, complexity, balance—yep, pretty much covers the bases. If you’re not familiar with this winery or the grape, keep in mind that Baga, despite a certain trend to civilizing it here and elsewhere, is more like old style Barolo. They aren’t sweet. They aren’t always easy. It is never going to be a fruity concoction. Hold this until around 2014 or so, at a minimum, for better results, but keep in mind that this may continue improving nicely for the next decade. Drink now-2030.